Mixed feelings on this. A good external bb setup is stiff, light, and doesn't require pressing off the arms for every bb service. Some even just use a single bolt to hold the whole thing together. On the other hand, a cheap and defined toolset covers all types of square taper bb, while modern bb's seem to have 20 different tools needed and they all cost $30 or more.
At the moment, my #cycljng is mainly limited by my cardiovascular system and energy. All of that time sick from respiratory illness was not kind to my fitness.
I like 1×, I like 2×, and I like 3×. I also like single-speed, fixed-gear, internally geared hubs, and bottom bracket gearboxes. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. :3
I'm mostly over 3x (and my diy 4x) but nothing I've ridden in 1x gives me enough range for either road or mountain bikes. I would sure like a Pinion gearbox matched to a 10 speed cassette, though. Then I'd be satisfied.
My totally amateur take of anecdata on that would be that 90% of the people only change their 7/8/9 speed because it's rusty from standing outside for years and at least 50% of people with 10+ speed actually replace them because of wear and tear. Prices don't seem to be so different anymore, but I just did a very quick search for Shimano at one online shop. So maybe yes?
Hopefully none of you ever get hit by a car while riding your bicycle. Unfortunately, this happens to thousands of cyclists every year. While some people do recover physically from their accident, they often get slapped with thousands or even hundreds of thousands in medical bills that insurance won't cover. Today, we'll talk about the ways you can prevent that from happening, should you collide with a motor vehicle while riding your bike.
The video is full of good information. The basic point is treat it like any other car crash. Take pictures. Get a police report. Talk to witnesses. Exchange information with the other person. All the stuff you would normally do. Gather as much information at the time of the incident as you can. Maybe you won't need it but you can't go back in time when you realize you forgot something.
While I was riding my main #bicycle on gravel a couple days ago, I was able to easily rescue a front wheel slide.
And when I was riding it yesterday up a fairly steep bit of sandy gravel (for the city), I was able to get past wheelslip and just pedal slowly and softly in a low gear to get up the hill.
Our world is built up of roads and cars to get us to our destination! But what about cycling and even walking? Have we been brainwashed to think that the car is always king?
Si goes on a deep dive into just how we are convinced to think that modern car culture is acceptable in our lives!
For our anniversary run of Rene Herse bikes—and for the bikes we ride in long-distance events—we wanted a better solution: a reliable needle-bearing headset that is Rinko-compatible. This is another project that had a long gestation period: We made the first prototypes three years ago. We ran them in Unbound XL (twice), in Paris-Brest-Paris, Arkansas High Country Race, Dark Divide 300 and many other rides and adventures. Along the way, we fine-tuned many details, both aesthetic and functional. We decreased stack height, lowered weight, and increased clearances to make sure the headset works smoothly and quietly under the harshest conditions. We tested and re-tested, and now the headsets are ready.
Had to use a pair of vice grips to remove the cover of my #Garmin power meter pedals because they were stuck enough that trying to use the hex socket to remove the cover just resulted in it stripping. (Yes, I'm using hex keys that are known to be good.)
The principle of the SCHWALBE CLIK VALVE, winner of the Eurobike Award 2024, is very simple: it works intuitively with a click. What does it need? The valve and the corresponding pump head or pump head adapter. With the Clik Valve, this can be clicked onto the bike valve with minimal force and removed again very easily after successful inflation.
It doesn't matter which valve and pump you currently have - thanks to conversion kits for all existing bicycle valves and most pumps. To change the bicycle valve, simply replace the valve insert (Sclaverand, Presta, Dunlop, tubeless valve), for the car valve there is an adapter that is screwed over the valve (and can be easily unscrewed again to be able to use petrol station pumps).
The pump head adapter can be integrated into the pump head of current pumps (by clamping or screwing in), even with hand pumps. The Schwalbe Clik Valve can also be inflated with normal SV (Presta) pumps - thanks to this reverse compatibility, you are never at a loss in any situation. And SKS will already be offering its own CLIK VALVE pump at Eurobike.
Schwalbe will soon be producing the first tubes with the Clik Valve.
I didn't realize the issues they mention were issues.
So I guess I just don't care: eventually we'll just have another type of bicycle valve on the bikes in garage. As long as there's a little converter thingy available it'll be fine.
The Clik Valve sounds like a good idea and I love the innovation. I'm not about to replace my existing Presta and Schrader stuff, so it's good to see that there are conversion kits.
I was prepared to dismiss this as standards proliferation but I actually like it. I appreciate that it's compatible with Presta pumps and the conversion kits seem pretty reasonably priced.
I've seen a lot of people struggle to get pump heads to fit well on both Presta and Schrader valves for a variety of reasons - insufficient hand strength, not knowing which position the locking lever is supposed to start in (it varies between manufacturers), damaged pump head gaskets. This seems to address all of those.
If it works as well as they advertise, I'd really like to see this standard take over.
My biggest concern - and I don't see it addressed anywhere - is that it might not be an open standard, and unless Shwalbe and the inventor are reasonable about licensing fees it might just inspire more competing standards.
It'd be nice if it means breaking a valve stem isn't as easy, I guess? Or if it became the new defacto pump so I don't have to worry about breaking cheap plastic Presta converters on cheap emergency mini-pumps for Schrader valves?
I don't necessarily doubt it might be better, but I doubt that it isn't just marginally kinda sorta better.
I am reasonnably curious. It looks cool, however I am not sure I am ready to retrofit all my pumps (1 for each bike + track/home pump) for click adapter + all my bikes valves. I'd have to do the math. I guess it is an easier choice for people who have only one bike.
I've lived with presta valves for decades after all.
After reading the article, I'm still having trouble understanding what it does differently.
If the promises are true, then good, Presta is fragile, and a not-fragile option would be nice. I won't buy it unless my pump already fits, and that was not entirely clear (adapter? do I have to carry it?).
I immediately thought of the Idaho Stop. WA implemented part of it, but we're still not allowed to treat red lights as stop signs. That should change, IMO.
Pretty sure they only made the beads so tight so that they'd form a more effective "seal" with the rim's well to make inflating with a compressor or similar easier. That results in two side-effects:
The tires are a bear to get on the rim!
As soon as pressure is lost, the beads want to migrate to the center of the rim's well.
The Schwalbe G-One Allround tires don’t roll noticeably slower than the GravelKings, but they do feel less “wobbly” at the same pressure and definitely bite well into gravel. #bicycle #cycling #biketooter #mastobikes
I've been running 38mm Panaracer GravelKing tires tubeless on my Soma Stanyan for years, but the front tire I just put on has enough wobble to rub in one spot on every rotation. (The wheel itself is true.)
Two shops told me that the tire wasn't seated right, but I checked and remounted multiple times and it's seating fine. Even used some rubbing alcohol to lubricate the tire where it seated, but it always mounts up perfectly fine. The tire is the problem.
The second shop gave the real answer after chatting with the folks there for a bit: I should go down a size. It's a real bummer, but even the Soma website says it can do up to 35mm. :(
The only other realistic alternative is a new frameset, or at least a new fork, but that will have to wait for a while. :(
Only problem is that I now have to find a completely different tire since both the GravelKing and Rene Herse tires don't go any smaller than 650B×38mm.
THE SPECIAL ONE. G-One Speed is above all a promise of maximum speed! This tire extends the range of use for every road cyclist. It rolls fast on the road, but at the same time safely on unkept cycle paths and gravel roads.
your can buy replacement clamps. I had such a failure the other day. A few bucks for the clamp, new bar tape (needed it anyway) and about 30mins of effort and I was back on the road. https://mastodon.social/@lildude/112547022754772368
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Whoops. That would explain why my right brake lever suddenly became loose on my ride last week when I hit a particularly brutal bump I only slightly avoided. #BikeTooter
When @clover and I got to the bottom of a long hill while #cycling yesterday, I heard the tell-tale sign of a #tubeless leak in my front tire, a well-used #Panaracer #GravelKing. She even said it was smoking, but I knew it was just sealant blowing out.
Thankfully, it was at the end of our ride and I didn't have to deal with steering on a floppy tire. I did snap this picture, though.
I tried seating it again today and it just wouldn't hold air because of the same spot. That's when I noticed the bulge in the sidewall near the bead, so I decided to toss the tire and put on a fresh (identical) one I had in reserve. The new tire seated without issue, aside from how I had to do it twice because I put it on the wrong way the first time. :P
This isn't a knock on Panaracer tire quality, of course. The tire's been through a lot and there was only so much tread left anyway.
The real downside is that the bike will be "offline" until tomorrow so that the sealant can make its way into all the tiny leaks while the wheel is resting in a safe environment.
A randonneur-style handlebar bag with a lightweight metal basket frame that uses hinges instead of bends would hold its shape extremely well over the years. 🤔
Now that the Nivex derailleurs have been in production for a while, Rene Herse is taking analog shifting to the next level with the Floating Chain. This system is lighter, has less resistance and costs far less than all derailleur systems available today.
Jan Heine, head of R&D at Rene Herse Cycles, explained: “One-by drivetrains have simplified bicycle gearing, but it’s time to go a step further. Most cyclists need only three gears: one for uphills, one for flat roads, and one for downhills. The steps between these gears tend to be relatively large. Large steps between three gears are easiest to accommodate on the front, with a triple crank. So we’ve effectively turned the one-by around and put all the gears on the front.”
The Floating Chain system uses a triple crank and just a single-speed freewheel on the rear. As an added benefit, front derailleurs are lighter, more reliable, and less prone to damage when the bike falls over.
In the interest of keeping the system simple and to reduce mechanical resistance to a minimum, there is no chain tensioner. The chain length is selected for the big chainring, and it’s allowed to float freely when it runs on one of the smaller chainrings. There is no need to keep the lower chain run tensioned, as long as you don’t backpedal for more than half a revolution of the cranks.
My alloy HED rims never go out of true and the braking surfaces have lasted for years. You get better quality when you pay a bit more irrespective of material.
I'm discussing this elsewhere at the mo too. I don't get the 'it's carbon so must be better' obsession. I ride both and have alloy rims that ride every bit as well as my carbon and indeed better in some circumstances.
@crowdotblack @lopta I wouldn't want >30mm alloy rims either, but >30mm carbon can be harsh once terrain gets lumpy: Riding more than say 150km off-road km in a day on my 43mm rims can leave me feeling battered and seeking out road routes as an alternative.
@crowdotblack @lopta I wouldn't want >30mm alloy rims either, but >30mm carbon can be harsh once terrain gets lumpy: Riding more than say 150km off-road km in a day on my 43mm rims can leave me feeling battered and seeking out road routes as an alternative.
@crowdotblack @lopta I hear nothing but good things about Rene Herse tyres, but can’t bring myself to risk the cash: a risk only in that I know I’m as likely to rip or pinch a £40 sidewall as I am an £85 one, and RH are never available at sale prices unlike the big brands. Maybe I’ll treat myself some day.
Replaceable derailleur hangers and the problems they can pose
Replaceable derailleur hangers Several years ago, I wrote an article called 'Chaos, the new standard'. That article holds so much truth even today that I thought a follow up was in order. So, here it goes. A company that's been around for 51 years, as we have, will tell you the importance of standards. This is a short article detailing one such detour that we took in the 1980's.
What are standards, and why should you care? If you are a person who wants to buy a bicycle that you will ride for 20 years plus, then standards mean a lot to you. For instance, I ride a Rodriguez road bike the we built here in 1999, and I'm still riding it today. I consider myself a Forever Bike person. I will still be able to buy parts for this bike in 20 years too. Any part that needs replacing we will have in stock. That's because it's built around ISO standards (International Standards Organization). ISO standards were settled upon by the bicycle industry in the 1970's in an attempt to make sure that people could get their bicycle fixed in just about any country, and well into the future. It's worked miraculously....until recently.
First time we've gone riding together since before the pandemic! @clover has been suffering from asthma for a long time and it has hindered her #cycling, until now! #ebike (1)
I liked the other post because it was a nice bike post, but it wasn't from someone I thought I knew. And then this popped up and I went "didn't I just like that photo?". Anyway, sounds like you two had a great day!
I would love to give it a try sometime to compare to the Can-Am Semiautomatic on the Limited. I would miss a clutch but I think the idea is a huge accessibility win giving a lot of flexibility and options to new and existing riders.
Really glad it's not too different from a "normal" bike in terms of looks and parts. Feel a whole lot better buying from an established brand (even an evil one like Specialized) rather than one of those companies that was formed to capitalize on the e-bike trend.
If you ride, your brain knows how motorcycles work intuitively, but we bet you'll struggle to explain it accurately. We're trading opinions for science in a pursuit to understand how motorcycles really steer.
These dynamics also apply to #bicycle riding, obviously.
Had an awesome time at the California Superbike Class I went to last weekend! While I was one of the bigger weenies on track as far as speed is concerned, I learned a lot of good handling skills for two wheels. The BMW S1000RR was pretty cool, too, aside from the maintenance alert coming up every time the bike was booted up. #motorcycle (Albums (59 photos total), 14 photos attached)
To get there, my dad and I did a road trip with an overnight stop halfway between home and Willows, CA, where this session was taking place.
Had a great time on this month's Swift Industries Social Ride! There were almost 40 of us on this ride since we all wanted to enjoy the nice weather after so much gloomy rain. The pace was nice because we were able to chat most of the time, but we also were given free reign to climb and descend more significant hills at our own pace. (Album)
Hoping to do more social rides this Summer since I think it's what I really need out of my hobbies (both bicycle and motorcycle riding) now.
Over the years our cost of doing business and the cost of living in our city have only gone up. We have aspired to provide living, professional wages to highly skilled tradespeople. I firmly believe that high wages and more opportunities and entry level positions for more diverse types of mechanics and salespeople are the keys to revising the bike retail model and replacing the exclusive and gatekeeping culture of bike shops and at the same time provide service that is more reliable and better value than riders are typically able to depend on.
After years of skirting the edge, depending on tightening margins, and digging for good luck in heaps of bad, we have hit a string of the bad kind; the reality that we cannot support ourselves and at the same time do this work in the manner that we most want has become undeniable.
It is a true thing to say that if your business can’t afford to pay fair wages, your business has no business doing business.
The shop’s closure is happening faster than we would have liked, and the livelihoods of my staff and myself are all at risk, as is our ability to meet all of the obligations we have to our customers. We will be closed for the next few days to organize ourselves, and then in the next few weeks, starting on Wednesday the 17th, we hope that you’ll consider coming in and picking up anything you might need from our shop. We have many high-quality ebikes for sale, as well as accessories like lights and helmets. We have bags of Lego for sale on a sliding scale from $5-500. We have all kinds of lovely things, and any support would be greatly appreciated.
Took the opportunity to do some routine maintenance on the bike in the warm comfort of home.
☑ New rear tire (tubeless) ☑ Cleaned the tubeless boogers out of the rear fender ☑ Installed a spring thing (converted from M4 to M5) to make the horizontal dropouts less annoying ☑ New cassette ☑ New chain
When I think of #Winter here, I just think of the cold, the rain, and all of the times I was either borderline or actually hypothermic when #cycling and similar outdoor activities in it. :/
That’s true. But as someone who lived/rode/raced through friction the first time around, I don’t really have any urge to go back. I mean, it’s fine (and it lets your get away with all sorts of hijinx in terms of components) but the utility (for my) of indexing outweighs all that. #BikeTooter
In all my years of #cycling, I've never found a great solution for cold weather. If I bundle up so I'm not chilled, then I soak everything with sweat in short order. If I wear less, then I freeze. I've tried Merino wool, synthetics (Gore, Event, etc.), and so on, but nothing works well enough for me.
Sadly, that means I don't do anything exciting on the #bicycle during the coldest part of the year. Just my daily local loop. :(
Same here. Just back from a ride at -2C. I could only do 30 km because I just got too cold. I wonder if riding a mountain bike might be better because there's less wind in the woods and you move slower? Anyway, I have gravel & road bikes so not an option
I always aim to get out the door feeling cold. Sometimes I wear a windblock vest for the first bit until I warm up, and then it gets fully unzipped (and I join #teamflappyvest ). It’s usually three layers for me- a skin touching layer to wick, a middle layer for insulation (often wool), and then an outer layer for elemental protection (wind, rain, snow). The outer two layers NEED to be full zip, with pulls I can grab. I unzip on climbs, and rezip on decents. #biketooter
@nothingfuture perfect layering strategy. Mirrors my own, my weak links are hand and foot warmth in the few degrees above freezing and anything below. My most recent long ride in such conditions, I added a hand warmer to back of each hand under glove, and one each to top outer side of foot. Made it comfortable without being hot as it gently warms the blood on it’s way into extremities, and didn’t effect fit of shoes or control of digits.
same thing with winter sports. The trick for me is a good wicking base layer to get the moisture off the skin, then a breathable middle layer for insulation but that allows the moisture to evaporate and then a water resistant outer shell with enough venting to breathe but not too much to be cold.
innicycle's unique system combines a threadless stem adapter with a sealed cartridge bearing headset. The result: Finally a way to tastefully incorporate modern components with your vintage bicycle.
Advantages
Lower weight & greater rigidity
Retains stock threaded fork
Compatible with modern handlebars and stems
Easily adjusted bearing preload using only a 6mm hex key
Ultra low stack height (low stem position adjust-ability)
Fitment
The innicycle Threadless Conversion Headset™ is compatible with most road and some MTB bikes that originally came equipped with 1" threaded headsets and quill stems. Forks must be 1"-24 TPI threaded with a 7/8" (22.2mm) inside diameter. Both ISO and JIS* fork crowns are supported.
I dunno. I don’t see this solving a big problem for me, though I own a number of bikes that (in theory) could utilize this. I guess I just don’t find 1” threaded headsets that problematic? A good quality one, properly installed and adjusted should be totally fine. And there are a number of meaningful advantages to quill stems (height adjustability, comfort, esthetics). And there are lovely quill stems for 31.8mm bars, so you can run modern stuff. #BikeTooter
@enobacon That seems like before the current borderline obsession with revamping vintage bikes. When I built my 90s-mtb-turned-gravel bike, the stem that VeloOrange makes was a total lifesaver. #BikeTooter
@enobacon @nothingfuture I remember a couple of them coming out around the ‘00 fixie conversion boom, but now they are made by a number of companies in various dimensions. I had one that went from quill stem to a removable faceplate for 31.8mm bars around that time. That way I could switch flats to drops without removing all the bar tape.
smellsofbikes
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