I originally thought I'd just use the stock pads until they were worn down, but they stopped just badly enough to convince me to put in Kool-Stop salmon pads. (It wasn't scary, but I wanted more confidence in my stopping.)
Always remember to sand your brake pads a little prior to installation. 👍
Today in tk's #seabikes adventures: descending from Phinney Ridge without a functioning front brake. 😱 (The bike has TRP Hylex hydraulic disc brakes. I took it to my LBS after and they said that it looks like the caliper might've sprung a leak and has been contaminating the rotor. I've had the brakes for several years now, so I'm not too bothered.)
Today in tk's #seabikes adventures: descending from Phinney Ridge without a functioning front brake. 😱
(The bike has TRP Hylex hydraulic disc brakes. I took it to my LBS after and they said that it looks like the caliper might've sprung a leak and has been contaminating the rotor. I've had the brakes for several years now, so I'm not too bothered.)
Yes, cantis. I like them. 🤷 They work well when set up correctly: straddle as low as you can get them to start, then raise little by little if you prefer. Having a lower cable hanger will additionally reduce system flex and improve stopping.
Even those dreaded Tektro "Oryx" 992A calipers. You need the straddle super low, but they work great that way. (That does also mean that they have limited tire clearance!)
(Oh, and this isn't a "rim versus disc" debate starter. If anything, it would be a "cantis suck" debate. :P )
@enobacon U Brakes are once again resurrected as “braze on centerpulls”. I have some on my old Centurion ProTour. Love the Tektro CR720 cantis, sadly discontinued it appears. Luckily I have a backstock.
Today in tk's #seabikes adventures: descending from Phinney Ridge without a functioning front brake. 😱
(The bike has TRP Hylex hydraulic disc brakes. I took it to my LBS after and they said that it looks like the caliper might've sprung a leak and has been contaminating the rotor. I've had the brakes for several years now, so I'm not too bothered.)
To be fair, bikes are utterly useless for going more than a few miles. Unless you're a fitness supergod.
Also ebikes are a lot more expensive than regular ones and not everyone has the energy for a regular pedal bike (*raises paw*).
But ebikes and escooters are great for getting around town!
So it makes sense to have little personal transportation things like (e)bikes/escooters for in-town and then cars for intercity. Maybe there could be big parking garages on the edge of town, either free (paid for by taxes) or monthly-rate, and just that's where your car lives when you're not using it.
Man, we've got NOTHING within 3 miles and we live in a city... we'd be going like 10 miles to our preferred grocery store. It's outside of our escooter's round trip battery range. (On an ebike we could get more range with pedal assist I bet, but ebikes are like $2000.) The train really helps.
Though a car also lets you go outside your local bubble.
Of course, intercity rail and stuff would help fill that gap, but I bet it would be EXPENSIVE and also good luck getting rail built to every small town in the US (that seems to be a thing in Europe though, so it might be feasible physically, just not politically).
@Thomas Bensler Infrastructure sharing works wonderfully in Taiwan. Many streets here have neither bicycle lanes nor sidewalks. Drivers are more or less considerate of other road users. So do the many scooter riders. Usually, when cars or scooters overtake other road users from behind, the safety distance to the overtaken road user is often more than 20 cm. It hardly ever happens that a rearview mirror causes injuries.
And more and more newly planned and built roads even have footpaths and cycle paths. Which are actually not allowed to be parked on.
Well and then, should the cars are getting less, there will be no more need for dedicated food paths and bicycle lanes.
Here in #Ottawa we have many separate bike paths all over the city, but we also have a lot on on-road dedicated bike lanes. Of course you can also bike directly on the roads as well.
Mixed feelings on this. A good external bb setup is stiff, light, and doesn't require pressing off the arms for every bb service. Some even just use a single bolt to hold the whole thing together. On the other hand, a cheap and defined toolset covers all types of square taper bb, while modern bb's seem to have 20 different tools needed and they all cost $30 or more.
At the moment, my #cycljng is mainly limited by my cardiovascular system and energy. All of that time sick from respiratory illness was not kind to my fitness.
Learning how to ride motorcycles (and riding them frequently for a few years) has significantly improved my #bicycle handling skills. :3 #motorcycle #cycling
On that note, I only tend to avoid rainy days when #motorcycle riding because I can't ride as fast, especially through turns. (The cold and wet don't bother me because I have the right gear.)
Getting into bicycling and motorcycling gave me a whole new perspective on road travel. They made me acutely aware of how small vehicles use the roads and position themselves, and that significantly improved my car driving.
I like 1×, I like 2×, and I like 3×. I also like single-speed, fixed-gear, internally geared hubs, and bottom bracket gearboxes. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. :3
I'm mostly over 3x (and my diy 4x) but nothing I've ridden in 1x gives me enough range for either road or mountain bikes. I would sure like a Pinion gearbox matched to a 10 speed cassette, though. Then I'd be satisfied.
My totally amateur take of anecdata on that would be that 90% of the people only change their 7/8/9 speed because it's rusty from standing outside for years and at least 50% of people with 10+ speed actually replace them because of wear and tear. Prices don't seem to be so different anymore, but I just did a very quick search for Shimano at one online shop. So maybe yes?
Hopefully none of you ever get hit by a car while riding your bicycle. Unfortunately, this happens to thousands of cyclists every year. While some people do recover physically from their accident, they often get slapped with thousands or even hundreds of thousands in medical bills that insurance won't cover. Today, we'll talk about the ways you can prevent that from happening, should you collide with a motor vehicle while riding your bike.
The video is full of good information. The basic point is treat it like any other car crash. Take pictures. Get a police report. Talk to witnesses. Exchange information with the other person. All the stuff you would normally do. Gather as much information at the time of the incident as you can. Maybe you won't need it but you can't go back in time when you realize you forgot something.
While I was riding my main #bicycle on gravel a couple days ago, I was able to easily rescue a front wheel slide.
And when I was riding it yesterday up a fairly steep bit of sandy gravel (for the city), I was able to get past wheelslip and just pedal slowly and softly in a low gear to get up the hill.
I went on a bicycle ride yesterday when it was in the 40 range and felt like I had a cold by the time I went to bed. Today with the windows open (no real choice), it feels like I’m having a bad allergy day. x.x #cycling #bicycle #seabikes #Seattle
Our world is built up of roads and cars to get us to our destination! But what about cycling and even walking? Have we been brainwashed to think that the car is always king?
Si goes on a deep dive into just how we are convinced to think that modern car culture is acceptable in our lives!
For our anniversary run of Rene Herse bikes—and for the bikes we ride in long-distance events—we wanted a better solution: a reliable needle-bearing headset that is Rinko-compatible. This is another project that had a long gestation period: We made the first prototypes three years ago. We ran them in Unbound XL (twice), in Paris-Brest-Paris, Arkansas High Country Race, Dark Divide 300 and many other rides and adventures. Along the way, we fine-tuned many details, both aesthetic and functional. We decreased stack height, lowered weight, and increased clearances to make sure the headset works smoothly and quietly under the harshest conditions. We tested and re-tested, and now the headsets are ready.
Had to use a pair of vice grips to remove the cover of my #Garmin power meter pedals because they were stuck enough that trying to use the hex socket to remove the cover just resulted in it stripping. (Yes, I'm using hex keys that are known to be good.)
The principle of the SCHWALBE CLIK VALVE, winner of the Eurobike Award 2024, is very simple: it works intuitively with a click. What does it need? The valve and the corresponding pump head or pump head adapter. With the Clik Valve, this can be clicked onto the bike valve with minimal force and removed again very easily after successful inflation.
It doesn't matter which valve and pump you currently have - thanks to conversion kits for all existing bicycle valves and most pumps. To change the bicycle valve, simply replace the valve insert (Sclaverand, Presta, Dunlop, tubeless valve), for the car valve there is an adapter that is screwed over the valve (and can be easily unscrewed again to be able to use petrol station pumps).
The pump head adapter can be integrated into the pump head of current pumps (by clamping or screwing in), even with hand pumps. The Schwalbe Clik Valve can also be inflated with normal SV (Presta) pumps - thanks to this reverse compatibility, you are never at a loss in any situation. And SKS will already be offering its own CLIK VALVE pump at Eurobike.
Schwalbe will soon be producing the first tubes with the Clik Valve.
I didn't realize the issues they mention were issues.
So I guess I just don't care: eventually we'll just have another type of bicycle valve on the bikes in garage. As long as there's a little converter thingy available it'll be fine.
The Clik Valve sounds like a good idea and I love the innovation. I'm not about to replace my existing Presta and Schrader stuff, so it's good to see that there are conversion kits.
I was prepared to dismiss this as standards proliferation but I actually like it. I appreciate that it's compatible with Presta pumps and the conversion kits seem pretty reasonably priced.
I've seen a lot of people struggle to get pump heads to fit well on both Presta and Schrader valves for a variety of reasons - insufficient hand strength, not knowing which position the locking lever is supposed to start in (it varies between manufacturers), damaged pump head gaskets. This seems to address all of those.
If it works as well as they advertise, I'd really like to see this standard take over.
My biggest concern - and I don't see it addressed anywhere - is that it might not be an open standard, and unless Shwalbe and the inventor are reasonable about licensing fees it might just inspire more competing standards.
It'd be nice if it means breaking a valve stem isn't as easy, I guess? Or if it became the new defacto pump so I don't have to worry about breaking cheap plastic Presta converters on cheap emergency mini-pumps for Schrader valves?
I don't necessarily doubt it might be better, but I doubt that it isn't just marginally kinda sorta better.
I am reasonnably curious. It looks cool, however I am not sure I am ready to retrofit all my pumps (1 for each bike + track/home pump) for click adapter + all my bikes valves. I'd have to do the math. I guess it is an easier choice for people who have only one bike.
I've lived with presta valves for decades after all.
After reading the article, I'm still having trouble understanding what it does differently.
If the promises are true, then good, Presta is fragile, and a not-fragile option would be nice. I won't buy it unless my pump already fits, and that was not entirely clear (adapter? do I have to carry it?).
I immediately thought of the Idaho Stop. WA implemented part of it, but we're still not allowed to treat red lights as stop signs. That should change, IMO.
Pretty sure they only made the beads so tight so that they'd form a more effective "seal" with the rim's well to make inflating with a compressor or similar easier. That results in two side-effects:
The tires are a bear to get on the rim!
As soon as pressure is lost, the beads want to migrate to the center of the rim's well.
The Schwalbe G-One Allround tires don’t roll noticeably slower than the GravelKings, but they do feel less “wobbly” at the same pressure and definitely bite well into gravel. #bicycle #cycling #biketooter #mastobikes
I've been running 38mm Panaracer GravelKing tires tubeless on my Soma Stanyan for years, but the front tire I just put on has enough wobble to rub in one spot on every rotation. (The wheel itself is true.)
Two shops told me that the tire wasn't seated right, but I checked and remounted multiple times and it's seating fine. Even used some rubbing alcohol to lubricate the tire where it seated, but it always mounts up perfectly fine. The tire is the problem.
The second shop gave the real answer after chatting with the folks there for a bit: I should go down a size. It's a real bummer, but even the Soma website says it can do up to 35mm. :(
The only other realistic alternative is a new frameset, or at least a new fork, but that will have to wait for a while. :(
Only problem is that I now have to find a completely different tire since both the GravelKing and Rene Herse tires don't go any smaller than 650B×38mm.
THE SPECIAL ONE. G-One Speed is above all a promise of maximum speed! This tire extends the range of use for every road cyclist. It rolls fast on the road, but at the same time safely on unkept cycle paths and gravel roads.
your can buy replacement clamps. I had such a failure the other day. A few bucks for the clamp, new bar tape (needed it anyway) and about 30mins of effort and I was back on the road. https://mastodon.social/@lildude/112547022754772368
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Whoops. That would explain why my right brake lever suddenly became loose on my ride last week when I hit a particularly brutal bump I only slightly avoided. #BikeTooter
. @clover and I were riding down a hill and slowed to let a pedestrian cross at a marked crosswalk, and were "rewarded" with an angry honk and close pass from a Tesla that was behind us.
I guess some drivers either are in their own little world or don't care about people crossing the street. :/
When @clover and I got to the bottom of a long hill while #cycling yesterday, I heard the tell-tale sign of a #tubeless leak in my front tire, a well-used #Panaracer #GravelKing. She even said it was smoking, but I knew it was just sealant blowing out.
Thankfully, it was at the end of our ride and I didn't have to deal with steering on a floppy tire. I did snap this picture, though.
I tried seating it again today and it just wouldn't hold air because of the same spot. That's when I noticed the bulge in the sidewall near the bead, so I decided to toss the tire and put on a fresh (identical) one I had in reserve. The new tire seated without issue, aside from how I had to do it twice because I put it on the wrong way the first time. :P
This isn't a knock on Panaracer tire quality, of course. The tire's been through a lot and there was only so much tread left anyway.
The real downside is that the bike will be "offline" until tomorrow so that the sealant can make its way into all the tiny leaks while the wheel is resting in a safe environment.
Broke a lace in my #motorcycle riding boots during the week and had to tie them up within the criss-cross lacing while I waited for some aramid laces to replace it to arrive. Reminds me of doing the same to a number of #cycling shoes I've had over the years! #bicycle
A randonneur-style handlebar bag with a lightweight metal basket frame that uses hinges instead of bends would hold its shape extremely well over the years. 🤔
smellsofbikes
in reply to Neil E. Hodges • • •Neil E. Hodges likes this.
Neil E. Hodges
in reply to Neil E. Hodges • •I know everyone hates cantis, but there's something magical about having the modulation ("mushy") region in just the right place. :3
#cycling #bicycle #mastobikes #biketooter
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