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in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

can i take a moment to complain about shitty north american plug standards for 220/240 volts now please? because fucking why.
This entry was edited (2 days ago)
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

That looks not at all good. I mean that might be "not properly inserted" or something, but don't you have two hots there?
in reply to Jigme Datse

@JigmeDatse YEP

SURE DO

this is what happens when you standardise early and end up with 110/120 hots

our 220/240 is a pair of 110/120 delivered 180 degrees out of phase

in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

@JigmeDatse I thought it was the same phase, taken from the middle of the same transformer coil.

This way if you connect the two together, they add up to double voltage.

Do I remember this wrong or is there yet another way?

in reply to XCondE

@xconde @JigmeDatse It's opposite-phase. The dryer I'm trying to fix, for example, has a heater design that absolutely could not work ever if it was the way you describe, but works perfectly well (when, well, working) with opposite-phase power.
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

@xconde @JigmeDatse (To wit: if you remove the controls and safety devices, the heater is connected to live black on one side and live red on the other. If live red and live black were in phase, this would be a 0V voltage differential at all times, meaning no work could be done. But in opposite phase through a resister, you have a 0 to 240V differential, allowing work.)
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

I feel the distinguishing factor is if the neutral (the one that each of the two hots are 110/120 to) is tied to the ground potential. Ie. is ground/neutral 0 volts? Or is it 110/220V? This was the debate that I was engaged with, and as best I could tell, ground/neutral are at the same potential therefore if neutral red, and neutral black are in phase, red/black would be 0V, and 180° out of phase, they would be at 220/240V.
in reply to Jigme Datse

@JigmeDatse @xconde neutral and ground are tied at earth potential (0V) on this dryer in particular but also back at the box.
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

NEMA twist locks are great!! standard home appliance plugs are not.
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

@wohali i am also about 50% just grump at where they put this stupid outlet

as i have been grumpy about several things the electricians who wired this place did

i have fixed most of them

i will not fix this because it doesn't rise to the bar but IT CAN BE ANNOYING

in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

YAY there’s a truth table!

BOO I’m pretty sure it’s wrong!

this is going to end up being this stupid add-on logic board isn’t it

with some unobtanium chip on it

#diy #dryer #repair

in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

SURE HOPE IT'S NOT THIS LITTLE FUCKER

(eta keep reading below)

This entry was edited (1 day ago)
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

I can find a 9944 which _may_ be a descendant chip? But if that's it, it's Not Compatible.
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

Hm? That's a standard LM339 quad comparator. TI, Onsemi, STMicro make those still.

9944 is the date code.

in reply to wohali

@wohali i musta entered too many numbers, i typed them in and nothing came up

(and the only chip I know by number is the 555 lol)

but, y'know - good! thanks!

in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

@wohali OH WAIT NO I GET IT THAT'S AN L I THOGUHT IT WAS AN I OR A 1

The lower bar on the L is just _fucking invisible_

in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

wohali in other replies tells me that top line reads LM339 not I M339 so that's why looking for M339 didn't come up with anything lol

BUT

while i may not know my chip numbers I _can_ follow a circuit diagramme an this should _not_ be part of the problem

(if it was, the drum wouldn't spin and it does)

#diy #electronics #dryer

in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

Thread continues here:

https://mastodon.murkworks.net/@moira/115657465164693951


okay so help me out here internets

(this post continues this thread from last night: https://mastodon.murkworks.net/@moira/115654079975842579 )

the switch pointed to by the red arrow should be being closed by the motor being activated, right?

because i'm getting 120v off the heater inputs against ground and that's coming in from the black leg. the red leg is supposed to be a direct connection except for this one switch and that's the only way I can see getting the behaviour I'm seeing.

(I waited for live power connection testing until today because I needed other people around.)

#dryer #diy #repair #electrical


in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

I buy q-tips by the 500+ package, and usually buy a couple packages a year. They are a staple on my electronics bench. I also go through gallons of 99.9% alcohol I use for cleaning. #electronics #maker
in reply to Solarbird :flag_cascadia:

I've cleaned those in the past. They can get gross. The lint gets in and sticks to the grease. It then gets ground up over time.